Travel > Poland

The availability of a new service from Leeds Bradford airport offering cheap flights to Krakow prompted my friend and I to book a week-long break to Poland recently.

The downside of travelling at this time of year became apparent when we were re-directed to Katowice airport (about an hour's drive from Krakow) on arrival), losing most of the first day by the time we had sat in the airport waiting to be bussed to Krakow! This, however, was capped by a horrendous 16 hours delay on the return journey, including a 10 hour bus trip to Prague for the return flight! Both delays were due to fog, which on the return was particularly thick and unpleasant. Despite this and due to some unseasonably warm weather, we enjoyed a very pleasant holiday in Poland.

We chose to spend 4 nights in Krakow and 3 nights in Warsaw. Krakow is full of character, with a large, attractive market square which has the picturesque St. Mary’s Church in one corner, and the Cloth Hall in the centre, next to attractive stalls with colourful displays of flowers. In the Cloth Hall it is possible to purchase crafts such as wooden boxes, wooden rabbi’s and glass objects. These are generally inexpensive, in common with other commodities in Poland. There is a gentle walk from the barbican and city walls, through the main square and onwards down to Wawel castle. The castle is beautiful, as well as having the added romance of a mythical fire breathing dragon, which is reflected in a fierce looking statue and even parts of the guttering!

We booked places on two excursions, both fascinating in their own right, although the decision to visit the concentration/death camps at Auschwitz and Birkenau was harder to make than that of going to the salt mines.

A visit to the Wieliczka salt mine is quite an experience. The sightseeing tour takes in three of the nine levels that make up the mine, and is approximately 2 miles on foot - less than 1% of the total mine. The mine, which is included in the UNESCO “Human Heritage” list, has an amazing array of sculptures carved out of the salt by the miners themselves, and crystal grottos, underground ponds and the magnificent Kinga’s chapel. As well as religious carvings there are impressive chandeliers also made out of salt!

Apparently, a level further down to those included in the tour, is a health area, where people pay simply to breathe in the atmosphere. The salty air is beneficial for those with asthma and similar complaints. A further bonus of going down the mine was the temperature: 1-2 degrees warmer that the autumnal temperatures outside!

The excursion to the concentration camps as you would expect, was a more sobering experience. The tour is not for the faint hearted, and includes a visit to the original gas chamber, situated only a few yards from the house where the camp commandant brought up a family of young children.

At Auschwitz there are grizzly reminders of what went on at the camps, including display cases containing human hair shaved from the heads of those going to the death camps, and sad reminders of those who died including piles of wire glasses, shoes and cases. In contrast, Birkenau seems remarkably peaceful, with the eerie site of the chimneys from the many destroyed wooden huts stretching out before you. At both places the stories and sights are hard to bear, but provide a permanent reminder that will hopefully prevent such atrocities ever being repeated.

Warsaw, the capital of Poland, is a fascinating city. The old town was completely destroyed during the Second World War. With incredible foresight local planners retrieved the original plans and the old town was completely reconstructed with great care. The old town square is beautiful, and there is quite a romantic atmosphere, with the wealth of quaint restaurants and shops in the area. There are however, many reminders of the death and destruction in the many plaques and memorials that confront you.

The old town is a complete contrast to the business and political heart of Warsaw, which can be viewed from near the top of the tall, striking, cultural building. All around are skyscrapers, modern buildings and busy roads. The story goes that the Poles are trying to blot the cultural building from the eye line, as it was a gift from the Russians, and displays typically grand Russian architectural style.

All in all Poland provided a peaceful yet thought provoking break. The history, castles and market squares shrouded in a seasonal mistiness provide a romantic backdrop for those looking for an intimate break. The quaint restaurants and hearty value-for-money food add to the appeal for a visit out of season.